Best of Watches and Wonders 2025
Every year, over 50,000 watch enthusiasts descend upon Geneva to be the first to experience the watch industry’s novelties. Watches and Wonders 2025 was a dazzling celebration of the watchmaker’s art, that spanned from April 1-7 this year and Feldmar’s own Scott Meller and Ben Scheidt were there for all the innovation and excellence. Held at the sprawling Palexpo in Geneva, the event showcased over 60 prestigious brands, including first-time exhibitors and independent manufacturers. Beyond the Salon, Geneva turned into a horologists playground where city exhibitions and free workshops were all on display. This year’s edition not only celebrated the art of watchmaking, but also spotlighted emerging talent, ensuring the legacy of horological craftsmanship continues to thrive. With all the new releases swirling around Switzerland, here’s what stood out to from the crowd to us at Feldmar.
Tudor Pelegos Ultra
For men who believe that limitations only exist to be overcome: the Tudor Pelegos Ultra—built for deep sea diving with a truly unbelievable depth rating of 1,000 meters. The 43mm case is crafted of both grade 2 and grade 5 satin finish titanium, and features a unidirectional rotating bezel in titanium completed by a matte ceramic insert, luminous material throughout, a helium escape valve, and a titanium screw-down crown. The Ultra uses the iconic Pelegos as a starting point, then enhances it for a diving environment—scaled up dial for visibility, thicker hands, larger markers, and a minute hand that boasts green luminescence to easily track elapsed time. It meets METAS Master Chronometer certification standards for precision, resistance to magnetic fields, waterproofness, and power reserve making it one of the most complete divers on the market. The titanium bracelet has been designed specifically for the deep sea diver with a clasp that’s adjustable without tools. The Pelegos Ultra stood out among the oversaturated crowd of dive watches because of its elite specifications, build quality, and excellent value. Perhaps most impressively, you can pick up this near indestructible watch for less than $5,000.
Bell & Ross Urban BR-05 36mm Black Steel
Bell & Ross has reinvented its classic, elegant city watch in a new, smaller 36mm size. Some collectors found Bell & Ross’ large and imposing sizes to dwarf smaller wrists. That problem is now no more. The BR-05 is a contemporary interpretation of the urban watch, a perfect fit for modern life. With a 36mm stainless steel case that alternates between polished and satin-finished surfaces, the watch has a remarkably comfortable steel bracelet for a wrist on the smaller side. The case also includes a crown guard, screw-down crown, and sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. The sunray black dial features “Baignoire-style” appliqué numerals and indexes filled with white Super-LumiNova® X1 (green emission), and skeletonised hour and minute hands filled with that same luminous material. The automatic movement has a 54-hour power reserve which will keep this watch wound after days of not wearing. Where once the BR-05 was once exclusionary to a section of wrist sizes, it’s now wearable – and beautiful – on the smaller wrist.
Zenith G.F.J.
Now this one is a heavy hitter! To celebrate its 160th anniversary, Zenith has released a bold new design-centric model, the G.F.J., named for the initials of Zenith’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot. The G.F.J. brings the legendary Calibre 135 movement, designed specifically to compete in chronometry competitions, into the 21st century. The 39mm 950 platinum case has a transparent case back. The seconds subdial is crafted from mother-of-pearl while the main portion is hewn from lapis lazuli stone, evoking a starry sky. The outer ring beneath the markers has a “brick” guilloche pattern that subtly represents the facade of the Zenith Manufacture. The dial is completed with 18kt white gold applied indices and 18kt white gold faceted hands. It’s finished with a blue alligator leather strap. This anniversary timepiece, a tribute to the pioneering spirit that has driven Zenith for 160 years, is available in a limited edition of just 160 pieces. We rarely get to see such a stunning combination of materials and with how rare this watch is it seems we won’t see them much more.
Bremont Altitude Perpetual Calendar GMT
Over the last couple of years, Bremont has broken from its traditional basis in aviation and expanded into diving and racing watches. For 2025, Bremont’s flagship releases at WW25 goes back to the brand’s roots, focusing on pilot’s watches. And with resounding success. Case in point: the Altitude Perpetual Calendar GMT, available in a limited edition of just 50 pieces worldwide. This rare and refined timepiece is housed in a lightweight 42mm trip-tick satin and polished titanium case, with a glass box anti-reflective sapphire crystal. A brushed “Air Force blue” dial features a beautifully balanced display, with a rotating globe at 12 o’clock indicating a second time zone, and subdials at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock presenting the month/leap year cycle, date, and running seconds. The numerals and indexes are filled with white Super-LumiNova®. Despite the mechanical complexity of this refined watch, all functions are easily adjusted via an integrated mono-pusher crown and discreet correctors. The hand-wound BHC9192-MH calibre has a bespoke perpetual calendar and GMT module. We love this watch because it stays true to Bremont’s classic design language while packing in heaps of complication.
Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Calibre 403
This reimagined edition of the renowned Big Crown Pointer Date, which was originally introduced in 1938, is powered by the game-changing Oris Calibre 403, a five-day automatic movement. That translates to an astounding 120 hour power-reserve which is better than almost any automatic currently on the market. The 40mm stainless steel case has a screw-in security crown, see-through sapphire crystal case back, and domed sapphire crystal. The Big Crown Pointer Date features hands, numerals, and indices filled with Super-LumiNova that have all been redesigned from the previous generation along with the bezel. Uniquely, the numerals are crafted entirely from luminous material, a burgeoning hallmark of watches in 2025. A brown Cervo Volante strap is an inspired accompaniment. With timeless design, elevated accuracy, and unparalleled reliability, this watch is simply irresistable to us.
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive U.F.A.
The Evolution 9 follows Grand Seiko’s deep-seated design philosophy. The watch is equipped with a silver-blue dial with a crystalline texture inspired by the frozen landscapes of the Kirigamine Highlands, with broad, faceted hands and bold grooved markers for exceptional legibility. The sharp yet refined geometry of the smaller proportioned 37mm case, crafted from high-intensity titanium, provides both durability and a lightweight feel on the wrist. A box-shaped sapphire crystal has anti-reflective coating on the inner surface. This Evolution 9 has the most interesting movement we’ve seen in a long while. At the heart of this timepiece is the groundbreaking Spring Drive Caliber 9RB2, the pinnacle of precision in a mechanical watch. The movement uses Grand Seiko’s new “Ultra Fine Accuracy” standard and achieves unprecedented levels of precision with a deviation of just +/- 20 seconds per year. The movement’s beauty is visible through the exhibition case back, where finely polished bevels and jewel-set bridges reflect Grand Seiko’s exceptional craftsmanship. The titanium bracelet has a microadjusting clasp – another welcome first from Grand Seiko.
Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Blue
For the man who feels equally at home in a London penthouse suite, shopping along Rodeo Drive, or strolling the stalls of the bustling Chatuchak Market in Bangkok, this is the watch for you. With the Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Blue, you have the world on your wrist. Truly versatile, it’s one of the world’s thinnest worldtimers. But it’s also a fully-fledged sports watch with water resistance to 100 meters, and a luminescent time display for low-light conditions. The 40mm stainless steel case has a sapphire crystal case back and domed sapphire crystal. The galvanized sunburst blue dial features worldtime, 24-hour home time, and day and night displays. What makes it truly special? Time zones are easily adjusted using a pusher on the case at 2 o’clock meaning there’s no need to fuss with the crown when changing timezones. The stainless steel bracelet is equipped with quick-change spring bars. This was one of the most buzzed-about watches at Watches and Wonders.
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35
A new Ingenieur model, in a new size—the Ingenieur Automatic 35 is a faithful representation of the emblematic 40mm Ingenieur design in a more compact 35mm case size, with the same ergonomics and highly detailed finishing. This modern Ingenieur revisits the bold aesthetic codes of the luxury sports watch created by renowned Geneva watch designer Gérald Genta in the 1970s. IWC’s designers and engineers worked hand-in-hand to define, proportion, and finish every characteristic of the Ingenieur faithfully to a 35mm case size. This model features a stainless steel case finished with a combination of satin-finished and polished surfaces, adding texture and reflecting light beautifully, with a see-through sapphire crystal case back, and integrated stainless steel bracelet. A hallmark feature of the Ingenieur 35 is its intricately crafted dial with the characteristic grid pattern, consisting of small lines and squares, the appliqués individually mounted by hand and filled with Super-LumiNova®. We are very excited about this new, smaller release.
Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Quantiéme Perpétuel
Exquisite, stunning, and innovative are all words that certainly apply to the Toric Quantiéme Perpétuel, but they don’t do this timepiece justice—perhaps awe-inspiring is a more apt description. The Toric collection continues its renaissance with one of watchmaking’s most revered complications, the perpetual calendar. Powered by a manual winding manufacture movement, the perpetual calendar unfurls in perfect coaxial harmony. An 18kt 40.6mm rose gold case features a sapphire cabochon set case back and anti-reflective sapphire crystal. The dial, hand-grained using a rediscovered, age-old technique, is offered in an emotionally resonant, soft and warm “golden hour” hue, with alpha-style hands and 18kt rose gold appliqués.. Influenced by the vintage aesthetic of the 1960s, the dial features a distinctive beveled design, for a subtle variation in levels. Paired with a nubuck strap of exceptional softness. The Toric Quantiéme Perpétuel embodies Parmigiani Fleurier’s mastery of complex calendar mechanisms and we can’t wait to get one in store.
Raymond Weil Freelancer Complete Calendar 40mm
A complete calendar for under $4,000? Hard to believe, but that’s exactly what Raymond Weil is offering with the new Freelancer. With a perfect balance between technical precision and refinement, Raymond Weil is proud to introduce the first complete calendar in the Freelancer collection. With its classical design, innovative features, and cutting-edge materials, this sophisticated new creation elevates the noble traditions of watchmaking, captivating both longtime watch enthusiasts and all admirers of contemporary elegance. The mechanism displays date, month, day, and moon phases within a newly redesigned 40mm brushed and polished stainless steel case featuring integrated correctors. The harmonious arrangement of the day, date, month, and moon phase is perfectly orchestrated on a blue dial, accented by white Super-LumiNova® coated indexes at their tips. The dial also features a celestial display inspired by an actual NASA image. A stainless steel bracelet completes the look. Every detail of this timepiece reflects Raymond Weil’s pursuit of affordable excellence in complication and style.
Tag Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph
This relaunch of a classic from the 1980s and ’90s coincides with TAG Heuer’s sponsorship of Formula 1 Racing with a 38mm stainless steel case designed to fit a wide range of wrist sizes. The new Formula 1 Solargraph reinterprets the original Series 1 watch with modern materials and bold, vibrant colors, offering a dynamic timepiece for the new generation that’s available in 9 different styles. One of the most popular models (seen above) features a black TH-Polylight bezel with a striking red flange, for a sporty, energetic look. A bright white dial has black lacquered hands and indexes with Super-LumiNova®, for perfect visibility, day and night. At the heart of the watch lies the Solargraph movement, driven by both natural and artificial light—with just a minute of light exposure, the Calibre TH50-00 powers the watch for a full day, and once fully charged it boasts up to 10 months of autonomy in total darkness. Paired with a sandblasted steel bracelet, this Formula 1 exudes racing heritage and modern fun.
Tudor Black Bay Pro
Watch aficionados have been clamoring for this, and it’s finally arrived—a white-dial version of the Black Bay Pro. After the release of the first Black Bay Pro with its black dial in 2022, TUDOR fans have been begging for just this iteration. The Black Bay Pro is a robust watch featuring a 24-hour graduated satin-brushed fixed bezel and an angular yellow 24-hour “snowflake” hand (an aesthetic hallmark of Tudor) which completes a lap of the dial every 24 hours. The 39mm case is made of polished and satin-finished steel and has a stainless steel screw-down crown with the classic TUDOR rose in relief. An opaline dial boosts legibility, with ceramic markers and hands outlined in black, to create a bold contrast that bolsters the design. This Black Bay Pro model is powered by TUDOR’s Manufacture Calibre MT5652 movement with built-in GMT function. We, like everyone else were excited to see this iteration on one of our already favorite watches.
Ulysse Nardin Diver Air
Ulysse Nardin is one of watchmaking’s biggest modern innovators. The manufacturer was the first to utilize silicon hairsprings in its signature Freak watches and was an early adopter of ceramic cases. In the latest edition from its Diver collection, Ulysse Nardin has gone beyond what is expected and what was once believed possible—the new Diver Air is the lightest mechanical dive watch ever made, achieved by integrating innovative materials such as PA6, carbon fiber, and titanium into a 44mm case. Here, high horology, high technology, and high performance unite. Building upon the foundation of the Diver X Skeleton UN-372 movement, Ulysse Nardin developed a new, high-tech calibre, the UN-374, which had to be entirely rethought and redesigned. With a unidirectional rotating bezel, rhodium-finish indexes with white Super-LumiNova®, and water resistance of 200 meters, this is a dive watch that achieves excellence. The Diver Air ships with two interchangeable ultra-light straps, each weighing less than 6 grams, custom-developed to match the Diver Air’s unique design and performance-driven spirit. The Diver Air is a watch that has to be felt to be fully appeciated.
Discover these and other luxury watches at Feldmar. Browse our online store or stop into our flagship location.
